tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13861412164805184862011-08-24T16:56:39.170+02:00VOYAGE REEL et IMAGINAIRE au NEPAL (ete 2009).Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.comBlogger61100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-47935512352822985462009-08-06T06:07:00.010+02:002011-08-24T07:40:10.904+02:00<span style="font-family: arial; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; "></span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " >Une PIERRE POUR la ROUTE</span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /><span style="font-family: arial; "></span> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; "></span> <br /></span><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A 10 ans, on connaît l'essentiel</span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">on ne peut l'exprimer</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">A 20 ans, on se croit plus vaste</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >que le monde</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >cela nous disperse</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A 30 ans, on travaille durement</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >esclave de l'argent, d'une femme</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >ou d'une famille</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A 40 ans, on se détache peu à peu</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >de ses fausses ambitions</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A 48 ans, je vis pour écrire</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >et j'écris pour vivre</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Je n'ai pas vu Patan, ni Pokhara</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >je n'ai pas randonné dans l'Annapurna</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >dans le massif de l'Everest</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >ces pétales chiffrés du Nepal</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Je ne regrette rien de ce que je ne peux faire</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >je vis comme j'écris tambours battants</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >je n'ai pas vu Patan ou Pokhara</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >pour mieux écrire sur Bhaktapur</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >ou sur Pashupatinath...</span></div><p align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span></p><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ecrire hors la vie n'est rien</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >vivre sans écrire est vivre moins</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /><span style="font-family: arial; "></span> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; "></span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="right"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-4793551235282298546?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-33401428049205416932009-08-05T15:23:00.014+02:002011-08-24T07:21:39.278+02:00<span style="font-family:arial;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><strong><span style="font-family: arial; ">HOMMAGE AUX TONGS</span></strong> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span> <br /> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">Je n'ai jamais pu les appeler </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">des claquettes</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">les tongs, cela sonne mieux -</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">sont les seules chaussures</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">vraiment indispensables</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: arial; " >pour le voyageur en Asie du sud</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Quand vous prenez une douche</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">les pieds nus sont déconseillés</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >rien ne vaut les tongs</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">A l'hôtel ou chez l'habitant</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">les chaussons sont superflus</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >gardez vos tongs</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">Au village ou en ville</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">les tongs sont idéales</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >remplacent les sandales</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">La mousson donnent aux tongs</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">une nécessité indiscutable</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >vous voyez-vous en botte ?</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">Dans la chaleur humide</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span><span style="font-family:Arial;">les chaussures sont inadaptées</span> </span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >on les abandonne volontiers</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Je randonne de plus en plus en tongs</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">à l'aise sur leurs semelles de caoutchouc</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >le pied léger, le coeur serein</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Mais hier, heurtant une marche de béton</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">je me suis ouvert le gros orteil</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">j'étais en tongs...</span> <br /><span style="font-family: Arial; "></span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Voir son propre sang irrite.</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Sac sur le dos, j'ai voyagé en tennis.</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Arrivé à Katmandou, pansement au pied</span> <br /></span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >je reste fidèle aux tongs.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /></span><div align="right"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-3340142804920541693?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-60538228522750742382009-08-05T06:44:00.011+02:002011-08-24T07:16:07.620+02:00<div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " >PASHUPATINATH et la LUMIERE</span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">Chaque soir, sur les ghats face au Temple d'or, trois prêtres mènent la fête de la Lumière, en l'honneur de la Bagmati.</span> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">La fête débute au crépuscule, mais les gens commencent à s'installer une heure avant</span><span style="font-family: arial; ">.</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: arial; ">Les trois jeunes prêtres arrivent sur l'espace central, ou de nombreux objets de cérémonie sont en place.</span> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ils frappent dans leurs mains, la musique jaillit des hauts parleurs, le public se met à chanter.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Deux fosses latérales débordent de fidèles debout, qui</span><span style="font-family: Arial; "> chantent, crient, reprennent les refrains, font plus de bruit que tous les spectateurs réunis...</span></span></div><p></p><p align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /><span style="font-family: arial; ">Cette fête est de pure poésie.</span></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >La musique, les chants, la gestuelle des prêtres - porteurs de lumière - remontent loin dans le temps, aux origines de nos terreurs, de nos espoirs.</span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Il y a ces flammes balayant l'espace, illuminant la nuit, qui laissent des traces évanescentes de lumière.</span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Il y a ces chants, refrains repris par la foule, ou palpitent la terreur sacrée, le conflit de l'eau et du feu.</span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Il y a la reviviscence nocturne des rites - ce style social ou chaque geste importe, laisse sa marque indélébile dans l'esprit.</span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Le tintement métallique des coupelles, le ballet aérien des fouets touffus, l'appel rauque des conques, le tourbillon cosmique des chandeliers en feu - tout devient prière, appel et espérance indissolubles, au plus profond de la nuit - vers la lumière.</span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></p><p align="justify"></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p align="right"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-6053822852275074238?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-52943531577844907242009-08-02T14:39:00.022+02:002011-08-24T07:04:17.279+02:00<span style="font-family:arial;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /></span><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " >CREMATION à PASHUPATINATH</span></strong></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Comment faire disparaître les corps ?</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >A Pashupatinath, telle est la question cruciale.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Partout sur cette planete, cette question exige des réponses concrêtes.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >En Occident, nous enterrons souvent les cadavres.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Les vers travaillent lentement et en silence. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Discrétion assurée - d'où la paix des cimetières.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Les crématoriums se multiplient, mais leurs cérémonies funéraires sont peu spectaculaires.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A Pashupatinath, les bûchers funéraires sont publics.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >On pense aux peines capitales de l'Europe médiévale, quand les sorcières, Juifs et hérétiques, avaient - aux moments de crises sociales - le privilège d'être brûlés vifs en public.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Comment se débarrasser des cadavres ?</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A défaut de les enterrer, on peut les brûler.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >L'air en garde constamment une odeur caractéristique... <br /> <br /></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Pour alimenter les bûchers, il faut d'énormes quantités de bois.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Des véhicules déposent sur les berges des fagots de bois. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Une sangle tendue sur leur front, tel le joug frontal des boeufs, des femmes portent sur leur dos ces volumineux fagots jusqu'au plus près des bûchers.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >La logistique est prête à résoudre la question des corps.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /><span> <br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Comme à Bénarès, il est recommandé de mourir à Pashupatinath.</span></span></span></div><div align="justify"><span><span style="font-family:arial;" >La famille porte le cadavre sur un brancard en contrebas du Temple d'or.</span></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les préparatifs commencent. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >J'y assiste depuis l'autre rive, côté oriental.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >On dépose le brancard à un emplacement spécial des ghats, perpendiculaire à la pente, près de la Bagmati.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Le mort, habillé, est entouré d'un linceul blanc.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >On dépouille le cadavre de ses vêtements.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >On le recouvre d'un linge orange, couvert d'inscriptions.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >On descend le brancard jusqu'à l'eau, le cadavre est aspergé, puis on le repose à sa place initiale.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ses proches offrent, chacun à leur tour, une guirlande de fleurs, de la poudre rouge, se recueillent.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ensuite le brancard est transporté vers l'aval, ou plusieurs autels de pierre sont prévus.</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Sur l'autel se dresse un bûcher. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les porteurs y déposent le mort, que l'on arrange au mieux.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Un spécialiste allume le feu.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >La crémation commence, veillée par deux personnes (sans compter la famille), qui activent le feu avec une perche.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Plusieurs bûchers brûlent en même temps, dégagent une fumée épaisse, qui fait fuir à plusieurs mètres.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les odeurs suffoquent, collent à la peau et aux bronches.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Beaucoup plus tard, quand la famille pleure l'incinéré ou se dispute ses biens, les cendres sont jetées dans la rivière vers l'aval.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Le feu et l'eau, éléments de Shiva, permettent de faire disparaître les corps.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; " ></span></div><div align="right"><span style="font-family: Arial; " >Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-5294353157784490724?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-89788493486877701582009-08-02T06:14:00.008+02:002011-08-24T06:51:35.829+02:00<div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " > <br /> <br />La BAGMATI à PASHUPATINATH</span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><div align="center"><strong><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></strong></div><p><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></p><p><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></span></p><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les plus belles villes du monde sont traversées par au moins une rivière ou un fleuve.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A Pashupatinath, la Bagmati possède au Népal un caractère sacré équivalent à celui du Gange en Inde.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Y mourir est très bénéfique, comme à Bénarès, coeur hindouiste de l'Inde.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Au bord de la Bagmati, sur les <em>ghats</em> du Temple d'or, on asperge les cadavres en public.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ensuite on les brûle un peu plus loin sur des bûchers.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >En même temps, des femmes déchargent dans la rivière de pleins paniers de détritus. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >La Bagmati sert de poubelle à ciel ouvert, mais ses eaux fort polluées restent sacrées...</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Le coeur religieux de Pashupatinath comprend deux ponts très proches.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >On ne cesse de les franchir toute la journée.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >La Bagmati n'est pas un obstacle à la circulation entre les deux rives.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Je traverse aussi deux autres ponts contruits plus en aval.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >L'un me permet de rejoindre le <em>dharamsala</em>, où je dors, directement depuis la rive opposée à celle du Temple d'or.</span></div><div align="justify"><span class="Apple-style-span" > <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Sur les <em>ghats</em> de la Bagmati, la vie est très active.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Des groupes d'enfants s'amusent et se baignent. Certains sautent d'un pont, ce qui est très apprécié par les passants.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Des habitants nettoient leurs enfants, se lavent, essorent leur linge. Le savon mousse... </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >L'eau aurait besoin d'un bon nettoyage aussi... <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les <em>ghats</em> sont encombrés d'hindous préparant leur panier d'offrandes, contenant des fleurs, des fruits, de l'encens, une bougie allumée.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ils se recueillent, prient, font un voeu, lancent leur offrande sur les eaux courantes de la Bagmati.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >J'ai vu cela partout : sur la Yamuna à Mathura, sur le Gange à Rishikesh ou Uttarkashi, sur la Mandakini ou sur l`Alaknanda...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >A chaque fois je suis ému par ce message aquatique, la flamme très vite éteinte. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Mais la fragile coupelle flotte encore...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Que les dieux aient le coeur bien placé et des oreilles pour entendre ! <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Brahmanes et <em>sadhus</em> hantent aussi les <em>ghats</em>.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Ils donnent audience et conseils, reçoivent hommages et petits cadeaux.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Chacun s'affaire, le temps s'écoule tel qu'en lui-même, pourtant chaque fois différent...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Les touristes prennent des photos, on essaye de leur soutirer autant de roupies que possible.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Chacun est à sa place, les dieux ne peuvent abandonner les mendiants. <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;" ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; " ></span></div><div align="right"><span style="font-family: arial; " >Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-8978849348687770158?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1386141216480518486.post-11256301970253533992009-08-02T05:18:00.018+02:002011-08-24T06:40:47.303+02:00<div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:130%;"><strong></strong></span></div><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:180%;"><strong></strong></span></div><span style="font-family: arial; " ><strong></strong><div align="center"><strong> <br /> <br />PASHUPATINATH, la <span>SHIVAITE</span></strong> <br /> <br /></div><p></p><p> <br /><span> <br /></span></p><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">La ville de Pashupatinath, située à 6 km de Katmandou, est l'un des centres les plus sacrés du Népal.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "><em>Pashupati</em> est un des nombreux noms de Shiva.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Il signifie "Gardien des âmes asservies". </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Shiva les protège, les stimule sur la voie de la délivrance.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Dans le <em>Mahabharata</em>, Arjuna obtient de Shiva l'arme la plus destructrice. C'est <em>Pashupata</em>.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Elle peut être lancée par l'esprit, la parole ou un arc.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Chaque année en hiver, tous <strong>les <em>sadhus</em></strong> du Népal se rassemblent à Pashupatinath pour la <em>Shivatri</em> ("la nuit sainte de Shiva"). <br />On les reconnaît facilement à leur tenue souvent orange, leurs cheveux longs, regroupés en chignon. Trois traits horizontaux marquent leur front.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Renonçant au monde, ils mendient pour vivre. Ils portent une gibecière, une boîte métallique et parfois un trident.</span></div><p><span> <br /></span></p><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Les <em>sadhus</em> mènent une recherche spirituelle, tels Shiva l'ascète, maître du yoga. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Shiva réduit en cendres le dieu de l'amour charnel. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "><em>Bhairava</em>, terrifiant et nu, Shiva est absorbé en lui-même dans l'indifférenciation primordiale. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">S'il suit héroïquement la voie du vide, le renonçant accède à cet absolu, débouchant sur une joie indicible. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Certains <em>sadhus</em> sont considérés comme des saints et vénérés comme tels.</span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">D'autres sont des imposteurs, prenant l'habit d'ermite pour parasiter les touristes, proies faciles. Devenir un yogi de haute volée demande davantage d'efforts et de compétences... <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Quelques individus pittoresques semblent déguisés en <em>sadhus</em>, tant le soin de leur apparence domine toute autre considération !</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Leur drogue narcissique s'ajuste à l'obsession photographique des touristes.</span></div><span style="font-family: arial; ">Difficile d'être plus exhibitionniste et cabotin. <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">J'ai rencontré leurs cousins, posant pour une photo contre des roupies, à Katmandou, maraudant autour de <em>Durbar Square</em>...</span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Représentant d'abord le côté destructeur de la <em>Trimurti</em>, Shiva a pris davantage d'importance par la suite. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Aujourd'hui, on l'associe aussi à la création (Brahma est ravalé à un rôle moindre). <br />A Pashupatinath, on retrouve partout <strong>les symboles de Shiva.</strong></span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Le plus gros <strong>taureau nandi</strong> est dans la cour du Temple d'or, réservé aux Hindous. <br />Je n'ai donc pas pu le visiter.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Mais de l'entrée, on peut admirer le postérieur doré d'un énorme nandi, doté de bijoux de famille respectables (a-t-il, à la lettre, des couilles en or ?)</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Dans le vaste domaine de Pashupatinath, les nandis pullulent, devant les temples, ou éparpillés dans les jardins.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Un autre symbole omniprésent est <strong>le lingam, associé au yoni</strong>. <br />Le plus gros que j'ai découvert est situé en aval des deux ponts, constituant le coeur du site avec le Temple d'or.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Construite sur une grande tourelle de briques oranges, c'est une sculpture imposante.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Elle est posée de biais, en surplomb et inclinée vers la rivière. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Ainsi le sperme cosmique s'écoule dans la Bagmati, comme le lait des offrandes. </span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Grâce à son troisième oeil, Shiva peut réduire quiconque en <strong>cendres</strong>.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Ce symbole est particulièrement vénéré à Pashupatinath, où l'on brûle les cadavres sur des bûchers, au bord de la Bagmati. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">On respire sans cesse les fumées de ces bûchers, leurs odeurs fortes mêlées de cendres...</span></div><div align="justify"><span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">On peut citer comme autres symboles de Shiva : le trident et le tambourin.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Mais aussi le cobra royal, le lion ou le lotus.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Shiva est dénommé sur chaque pétale de chaque lotus.</span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Pashupatinath est lieu de pèlerinage pour les <em>sadhus</em>, comme pour les Hindous en général.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Ils dorment souvent dans des <strong>dharamsalas</strong>, dont les prix sont accessibles. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Et les repas peuvent être gratuits.</span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Quand j'arrive à Pashupatinath, je demande à des passants où je peux trouver une chambre.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Un jeune homme me répond :</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">-"Ici, c'est réservé aux Hindous ! Il faut remonter vers Gaushala ! <em>Guesthouse</em> !"</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Deux hommes approuvent, goguenards...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">-" Non, je veux dormir ici, pas à Gaushala ! Et dans un <em>dharamsala</em> ! Où en trouve-t-on ?"</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Certains refusent de répondre, détournent la tête... </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Mais un homme m'indique le chemin d'un <em>dharamsala</em>, dans le village même de Pashupatinath.</span></div><span> <br /> <br /></span><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">A l'office du <em>dharamsala</em>, mêmes réticences !</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Le manager me regarde avec stupeur :</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">-"Ce n`est pas possible. Nous n'avons pas de chambre pour vous !"</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">-"Mais ce <em>dharamsala</em> est immense ! En Inde, j'ai l'habitude de dormir en <em>dharamsala</em>. Je connais les règles. Vous n'aurez aucun problème..."</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Je mène la négociation avec ténacité, présente de solides arguments. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Finalement, j'emporte le morceau.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Le manager regarde son associé d'un air impuissant... </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Il hoche la tête, c</span><span style="font-family: arial; ">'est d`accord pour une chambre...</span></div><div align="justify"><span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Je passe deux nuits dans une chambre minuscule.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">La nuit, impossible de dormir à cause des conversations, des chants...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Au matin, de multiples démangeaisons me prouvent que des bestioles variées s'activent de nuit...</span></div><div align="justify"><span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">A mon retour le soir, je retrouve l'assistant dans ma chambre ! </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">En réalité, mon cadenas ne servait à rien. Leur système débile de fermeture permet de l'escamoter...</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Aussitôt, je fonce me plaindre auprès du manager :</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">-"J'ai loué une chambre, pas un hall de gare ! Ma chambre est privée ! Personne ne doit y entrer !"</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Le manager m'approuve, hoche la tête...</span></div><div align="justify"><span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Plus tard, un peu avant minuit, démangé de partout, j'écris comme un possédé, quand je me retrouve nez à nez avec une souris !</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Du coup, je comprends qui a grignoté le trou au bas de ma porte...</span></div><div align="justify"><span> <br /> <br /></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: Arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family: arial; "></span></div><div align="right"><span style="font-family: arial; ">Lionel Bonhouvrier.</span></div></span><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/1386141216480518486-1125630197025353399?l=nepalaises.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>Lionel Bonhouvrier.http://www.blogger.com/profile/14497924450439041031noreply@blogger.com0